I did a similar tutorial on just shadow maps a while ago, but now that UV maps have become so popular with Mesh, and Gimp 2.8 is so different from 2.6, I decided to redo it. I’ve also made some mesh items with UV and AO maps, as well as the sculpty logs with the AO maps, so this seemed a good time to update.

I also teach classes on this and other things at the Builders Brewery, a most excellent place to learn things. If you’d like to grab the supplies used in class,  they are by the landing point of my shop.

You can download Gimp for free here.

My friend Zed Tremont of Twice Baked Textures has also made a tutorial in 2 parts on how to use UV and Ambient Occlusion Maps in Photoshop: Part 1, Part 2. The principles are the same in Gimp, and its always nice to see different ways of doing things.

The basics in this tutorial are the same for Photoshop, to tile a texture in PS use Filters > stylize > Tiles …  and set your repeats, use 50% offset  and fill empty areas with unaltered image or inverse image.

Download Textures to Your Hard Drive

Let us begin. First download all of the  UV maps, AO maps and textures that you will be using.  On most viewers you double click the image to open it, and in the lower right of the view pane will be a Save… drop down button. Other viewers you can simply right click and select Save..  Save as png or tga – it really doesn’t matter.  For my own purposes I tend to save textures in png format and sculpts as .tga – but thats just to help my tiny little mind remember what things are.

All of these textures are the same size, 512 x 512 pixels. You may receive UV & AO maps or textures in different sizes. Its important to make all the layers the same size when working like this.

Experiment with textures on your object in-world

Now rez your sculpt or mesh which you would like to work on, in this case its a mesh log.

The mesh log in the class kit comes with its UV texture on it. But I would like you to take a moment to play with it and see how it textures.

Notice that I have helpfully labeled the UV map with the words “inside” and “outside” to help when you use the UV map as a template in Gimp.

This log has TWO textureable faces. The inside and the outside can be textured differently. They both use the same UV and shadow map, or you can open the texture tab and put the bark texture on and it will all be barky.

Or you can put another texture on the inside! Apply the DBS rough wood grey for class texture to the inside of the log.

To texture a different face, the safe way is via the build menu Have the log in edit, tick “Select Face” on the top left area of the edit menu, and then click on the inside of the log – lines and circles will appear showing that that face is active.

Then drag the DBS rough wood grey into the texture window on the build tab.

Yes, you CAN also drag your texture from your inventory directly to the face you want to texture without even using select face. However down that road lies many a ruined floor due to dropped textures…

Notice that the DBS Seamless bark for class sits on the bark at 90 degrees to the expected grain. Thats on purpose – to give a bit of practice here.  Select the outside face of the log using “select face” on the edit menu, then click on the outer face and in the texture tab change the rotation of the bark to 90.

01 2 faces bark faces rotate 90

So now you have two textures on this log, with different settings – the outer one is rotated 90 degrees. Remember that for when we go to work in Gimp.

I usually play with textures in-world first and then go work in Gimp. Because all that matters is how it looks in-world.

Bear in mind that as you  stretch this log (with stretch textures ticked ON), the textures will become more stretched as it gets larger.  If I wanted a really big log, I would increase the repeats of the texture.

Because a custom texture is meant to fit on a sculpt or mesh at the default 1 x 1 repeats, and if its shaded it MUST be at 1 x 1, you want to compensate for that in the texture you are going to make.

Go ahead and change your repeats on the texture tab until the results please you.  If repeats of 1 horizontal and 1 vertical look good for the size of the object in-world,  by all means use that. But often you will want to change the repeats.

Remember that there are TWO faces on this log, and pay attention to note if you are working on both (no single face selected) or the inside only, or the outside only.

For the purposes of this tutorial make the horizontal repeats equal the vertical repeats, and make those repeats a whole number of 4 or less.  Repeating too high in Gimp or Photoshop will blur the texture due to loss of pixels.

02 repeats 2 x 2

For this example I have chosen a repeat of 2 horizontal and 2 vertical for both the inside and outside of the log. If you are using the same repeats for the whole log, you do not need to select face.

While you can modify textures with unequal repeats, lets keep them even for simplicity’s sake. You may want to refer to Zed’s tutorials for hints on how to do that.

Remember these repeats, or write them down.  If you were to offset the textures in any way you would also record that.

Return your texture settings to default

03 return texutre settings to default

IMPORTANT! Now return your texture settings to default. Otherwise when you apply your custom texture at the end of the class you will get a fright and think its wrong. Change all the texture repeats back to 1 x 1 and the rotation to zero.

Do it now and save yourself the crazy making

Layers in Gimp

Ok – now open all 4 of the textures you downloaded in Gimp, you want to open them as 4 layers in one image window – not 4 separate images.

The easy way is to simply click and drag one image into Gimp when its open, then click and drag each of the other 3 to the same image window.

You can also use File > open as layers.

04 4 layers in Gimp

You want your Gimp workspace to look like mine here in the image. Click and drag your layers on the right layers pane to put them into the same order: Shadow map on top, then UV, then the dark bark, then the rough wood.

Hide top 2 layers, rotate bark layer

First hide the shadow and UV maps so we can work on the bark layer. Click the eyeballs next to the UV and shadow layer to hide them. Then click the thumbnail of the bark layer to highlight it with the blue band. Just as you see in this slide.

05 roate bark

Now go to the top Gimp menu bar and select LAYER > Transform > Rotate 90 deg clockwise. This will rotate the dark bark 90 degrees clockwise just as we did in-world.

Small Tiles

Now we will tile the two wood textures in Gimp to the same repeats we used in world.

With the bark layer active, apply the same repeats that were pleasing to you in world on the sculpt using Filters > Map > Small Tiles…  The dialogue shown will pop up.

Just change the segments to what your repeats were – in my case I will change the segment slider to 2. Leave the rest of the window at default. Click ok. This will tile your seamless bark to repeats of 2 x 2 within the same size of 512 x 512.

06 small tilesHide the bark texture by clicking its eyeball, then click the rough wood texture to highlight it, and change the rough wood to repeats of 2 x 2 as well, just as you did for the bark.

Now you have both of the wood layers tiled in the same number of repeats as you did in-world.

Using the UV map as a guide

Now make your UV map layer visible by clicking the eyeball. You will notice that not only did I very helpfully label the inside and the outside, but I also drew a darker black line on it – can anyone guess why?

That line shows where the outside of the log meets the inside of the log on one side (the other is at the upper side of the texture).

On some builds you want a very harsh demarcation, but on organic things I think a fuzzier line is nicer.

Ok so now make your UV layer visible by clicking the eyeball, but you want your BARK layer active by clicking the thumbnail to make it blue. You are using the UV map for reference, but will work on the bark layer.

07 use UV as a gude draw a box

Click the Rectangle select tool to make it active. Then tick ON feather edges and change the number to around 14.

Now draw a rectangle as shown here on this slide. Made the edges wider than your gimp image, put the bottom of the rectangle right on the darker line. Make the top of the rectangle come just barely below the top edge of the UV map.

Cut out part of the bark layer

Hide the UV layer by clicking the eyeball next to it. The rectangle you made will remain active

08 cut out bark

Make sure your dark bark layer is active. Go to Layer > Transparency > Add Alpha Channel

Then go to Edit > cut and remove the bark that you do not want. You can also use ctl + x or on mac cmd + x to cut things out in Gimp.

Once you cut your workspace should look like my image above, with the rough wood showing now.  Remember that if something goes wrong you can use Edit > undo or, just like in SL, ctl + z to undo your recent changes and try again.

Change Mode

Now make sure the top AO shadow layer is visible (click eyeball) and active (click thumbnail to highlight).. Go to MODE above the layers and change the mode from Normal to Overlay.

09 change mode

There are LOTS of options here to choose from – and the slider makes the choices infinite. but for now just change to overlay at 100%

Many people also like to use multiply or even grain merge for shadows. Do play around with different modes and see their effect on the layers below them.

10 overlay

BAM! See how nice that looks? now the inside is all shaded, and a grungy wood. And the outside is lit up and barky.

And look at that nice soft line where the bark meets the rough wood. Gogo feather edges.

Save as .XCF and .PNG

Saving! Now is the time to save your work. First save all your layers in Gimps native format – XCF.

Always save your work with layers so you can go back and make changes.

But we can not use an XCF file in Second Life.

11 saving xcf pngSo export it as a png – simply type in .png for the extension. Then save it to a logical location, I save to the same place as my XCF file. In your final export window slide the slider to zero compression – we want ALL our pixels.

Then click export.

You now have 2 files, an XCF with all the layers, and a PNG that you can use in SL.

Remove the Alpha from the PNG

Let us work now on the PNG file, so go ahead and open it via File > open recent, or command +1 or probably ctl +1 on a pc to open the most recent file you exported or saved.

Ok now we need to remove the alpha in this png. Accidental alphas are terrible things.

Make very sure you are now working on the exported PNG image that has only ONE layer.

12 png remove alpha

Because we created an alpha when we cut out that bit of the bark, we now need to remove it.

Remove the alpha by right clicking the layer and select “remove alpha channel”. For future reference, if that option is already greyed out, the alpha is not there to remove.

Now this is critical – go to File > Overwrite whateveryounamedit.png to save this change. If you do not, you will loose your changes.

Then exit without saving – you cant save a png in Gimp, only in XCF. But youve already saved it by overwriting (or exporting if you’ve given it a new name).

Check the texture you made in-world & local textures

Check to see see how your texture looks in-world. You can check without paying for upload by using local textures.

To use local textures go into edit on your log and go to the texture tab. Double click the texture window to open the texture picker. Underneath the picture of the texture you have 2 buttons, Inventory and Local. Tick local.

The tick the Add button to bring up a window to browse to your PNG. then select Choose. That texture will now appear in your Pick Texture window – highlight it and it will appear on your object.

Now whenever you overwrite your png with the same name – the texture on this object will update!

Just remember that only YOU can see this texture, its only grey to anyone else.

Shadows Only

Now, notice that the outside texture, the bark, has become significantly lighter because of the overlay effect. What if we wanted ONLY shadows and no highlights?

Well thats quite simple. On your XCF file with the layers, make sure that the shadow or AO layer is active, and go to Color > Color to Alpha and make white the color to change to alpha.

13 color to alpha for only shadows

BAM! this gives you only shadows, but no highlights.

You could also do the same but color to alpha out the black if you only wanted highlights, but no shadows.

And thats your basic lesson on how to use UV and AO maps in Gimp for Second Life or InWorlds or whatever your virtual world of choice is. Go make pretty things.


When you cash Lindens out of Second Life using the Linden Exchange, you have the choice between a “Market Sell” and a “Limit Sell”. Although I’ve never done a Market sell, I can see that I get considerably more dollars using the Limit Sell, but apparently the Market Sell is much faster. I’m not sure how much faster! I’ve never used it!

I work hard for my lindens and I wish to optimize the amount of dollars I receive for them.

When you do a Limit Sell on the Linden Exchange, you are trading your lindens for other residents dollars. So when you sign up to perform a Limit Sell, you are put in a queue that will match up your lindens with other residents dollars when its your turn to exchange. And quite likely your exchange will happen in chunks when its your turn – not all at once.

Unless you are planning on cashing out and processing credit of USD $10,000 or more, OR PayPal will not permit payments to your country, you will need to set up a PayPal account first (see here). I’ve had one for years, I used to send money from PayPal to my bank, but now I use the PayPal debit card.

Your cash outs from Linden Dollars to US Dollars proceed in 2 steps: first to your US Dollar Balance that belongs to your Second Life account (which you can use to pay tier to LL or for premium fees), then to your PayPal account. Each step takes a few days, the whole process usually takes 7 days for me from initiating the Market Sell to the money in my PayPal account. On a first time limit sell it took 11 days to complete for a friend of mine.

In order to keep from stressing myself out, I start the cash-out process at least two weeks before I need the money.

Exchanging Lindens for US Dollars via Limit Sell

So once you have a PayPal account set up, you can begin the process. First you will need to turn on your advanced settings. On the left hand side of your Second Life Dashboard, under Linden Exchange click on “Manage” and then in the list that appears underneath click on “L$ Exchange Settings”. My list may be longer than yours because I already had my advanced settings on.

01 L$ Exchange settings

This will take you to a page where you can select basic or advanced settings, tick the advanced button and click submit.

002 Linden dollar exchange settingsNow you will be able to see many more functions that are denied to basic display users! I always have to click Manage to show the rest of the choices below. Then click on “Sell L$”

03 Sell LThe next page that appears will show you a bunch of information and choices. Here is where you can make a Limit Sell. First you need to select the Exchange Rate to use. I always choose the one with the most volume (which may not be the top value). In this case the most volume is trading at L$247 / US$1.00.  If there is a tranche selling just above that rate for L$248 / US$1.00, you could use 248 as your exchange rate and your Limit Sell should sell faster than if you chose 247. But I always give myself plenty of time and pick the higher volume amount.

You CAN try to get even more US dollars for attempting to exchange at a better rate, say L$245 or L$246 per US$1.00, but my attempts to sell at any rate better than the prevailing rate never sold in the month I was willing to wait and see.

You can also perform a Market Sell, which will net you significantly less US dollars.  I like to compare the estimated proceeds of Market Sells and Limit Sells just so I can see how much more money I am getting out of a Limit Sell.

So once you are done exploring, enter the number of Lindens you wish to exchange, and the exchange rate you wish to use – in this example it would be L$247 / US$1.00. You will see numbers appear Estimated Value (before fees) and the Estimated Proceeds (after LL takes their 3.5% cut).

04 Limit Sell

Once you click on the “Offer to Sell” button you will be directed to re-enter your SL login information again, and then will be taken to a confirmation page. You should also get an email stating that a Limit Sell order was placed from Second Life. Now you just wait. Probably about 4-5 days.

You will notice that the amount of Lindens that you offered to sell have been taken from your Linden Balance. This is because it has been pulled into the exchange queue, waiting for buyers, And it would not do if you spent the Lindens on a spaceship, lemur avatar or nifty new skin with scales in the meantime. But never fear! You can always check to see how things are proceeding by going under the Linden Exchange (left side of your Dashboard) > Manage > Transaction History. Your Open (pending) orders will show up, relieving your fears that your Lindens have somehow escaped to the ether. You can also check your closed orders in the last 30 days on this page.

05 check your order

So just be patient until that magical day comes that you receive an email telling you that your Limit Sell has been filled!

Once it has been filled, the US dollars REMAIN in your Second Life account. This enables you to pay tier, premium fees or even shop on marketplace with US dollars! (Don’t you DARE shop on Market Place with US Dollars!). Linden Labs will use this US Dollar balance first for any money owed to them, before they attempt to collect from your payment information on record.

Processing Credit

Now for the second step – Process Credit. If you wish to transfer some or all of these US Dollars to your PayPal account, now is the time. Go to your Account Summary on your Dashboard, and you will see a US Dollar balance with a “process Credit” link next to it. Click that!

06 Process Credit

Then next page shows that the Process Credit has changed (for now) and you are given a link to the knowledge base if you care to read more about it. You will need to select a Payout Method, so click the Payout Method plus button .


You should only need to do this part once, unless of course LL changes things again.

07 select a payout method

Clicking on the plus button will take you to this dialogue for Change Payment Method. If you need to add a payment method, click the link to add a payment method.

If you have processed credit to PayPal in the past, you will be able to tick a box next to PayPal Address that shows the email you use to process PayPal payments.  Tick the button and click continue.

08 change payment method

Now you will see the PayPal logo and the email you use for PayPal under payout method.  BE VERY SURE THIS EMAIL ADDRESS IS CORRECT, BECAUSE THE FUNDS WILL GO TO WHATEVER EMAIL YOU ENTER!!

Then click the Request Process credit button

09 Payout Method

You will again be asked to enter your SL login information, and then you will be directed to a page showing the Transaction Details of your Process Credit Request.

10 Transaction details

Now you will wait  – again – for about 3 days, (could be 6 days if its your first time). Then you will get an email from PayPal saying that your money is available in your PayPal account. It usually takes me a week from initiating a limit sell to seeing the money in my PayPal account if I go to process credit as soon as I get the email that my Limit Sell was filled, but your first time may take longer.

And that’s how you optimize your cash out from Second Life to real money!

There’s this neat neat person named Eku Zhong in SL. She makes astoundingly beautiful things, and is helpful and kind – even to annoying otters.

It turns out that Eku needs our help:

“There is this great person named Eku Zhong. She is funny, talented, kind, and also quite ill. Not ill as in awesome, ill as in sick. Not sick as in super cool (well she is that too) but sick as in very, very ill.” You can read all about it at http://unhingedsl.com./

So there is an Unhinged festival going on! Lots of booths with some great wares and gatchas.

Admire my fuzzy slippers! They are by Astolat Dufaux: Montagne Noire – there are a bunch of skull colors in the fuzzy slipper gatcha, and I can attest to the fact that they look good on tiny mesh avis and regular humans!

There has been and will be some awesome DJ’s as well – check the link above for times.

Today we had an impromptu dance – machinima by Smiley Orc

I made some meshy pots and plants with skulls on them to go with the theme – these are mod and trans and 1 Land Impact for two linked pots. These skull pots are exclusive to this event. You can find my booth here.

I didn’t do the gacha thing because I’m kinda clueless about these things and thought that some people might just want to buy what they like. The pairs are 150L each and 900L for the fatpack of all 10 pairs.

So come to the Unhinged Festival and do some shopping for a good cause and get your paws on some fun and exclusive items.



Fun with Scarecrows!

I can not believe that Thane got all of this detail into a 1 prim / 1 LI sculpted scarecrow, and Im super pleased with how they textured.

If you are a member of the Builders Brewery, the straight armed scarecrow set is a gift to group members at the Brewery Halloween Gift Exchange until 31 October.  If you aren’t a member or don’t like searching, clicky on the image to nab it on marketplace.

All images are links to the marketplace, or come see them at the shop!

There is also a version with bent arms, and a fatpack of all of them. The custom textures are interchangeable between the two sculpts, or use the textures as a template to make your own.

Inky Accident

This set was made with role play in mind. The spilled ink pot is 1 prim and the scroll is another. The texture for the scroll is just a simple texture, so other textures can definitely be used. Of course each piece can be used separately.

I adore this new duckling. He is the vanguard for the rest of his family, who have not been made yet. But in the meantime his adorable 1-prim duckiness can grace any scene needing small waterfowl:


This Devil’s Dance set includes both the regular sculpt and a nanno sculpt in case you need tiny dancing devils. Each devil is 2 prims (eyes are a separate sculpt) and 1 custom body texture – color and shiny the eyes as you like.

Thane made this clawed hand for a throne, and indeed it makes a lovely claw throne. But I think it wild also be good for a lamp, or for a multitude of gothic decor where you need a demon or dragon claw accent. This comes with 3 textures – one seamless grey scales, and a custom red with claws and a custom grey with claws (grey textures are good for tinting in world). But I imagine other textures would be interesting as well.

The full perm mini hunt #6 is on from Sept 27 to Oct 8. If you like floating islands, you want my gifty – that’s all I’m sayin’

I’m back from our trip about UK and Ireland! And I have a bazillion photos to process into textures! But I did these Celtic crosses first because I love them.  These are nice clean alpha textures with lovely detailing and marks of age. Some added 3d effects make them quite realistic in-world.

And I finally put my autumn leaf pathway textures up on market – I’d used these for last years Samhain event, they worked very well for pathways and splashes of color.

And new sitting kitties! We’d had a number of requests for sitting blinky cats without hats. So now we have a tabby and black kitty – sitting up alertly and blinking.

Gosh its September already. I can’t believe how fast time is flying! Two hunts for me this month.

Steam the Hunt 7

I always love this hunt and the fun things people make for it. This time I made a cute 1 prim mesh sundial with weathered metallic textures and an animated gnomon shadow that moves over a verdigris copper face. I was tempted to make it keep real time, but then went off a philosophical tangent about the meaning of time and got distracted… But I think this sundial will add a nice touch to any garden.



Too Cute to be True Full Perm Hunt

This is a new hunt and I love full perm hunts. I think they give builders a chance to build up a nice collection of builders supplies, and try out new creators and different styles. The prizes in this hunt are 2L each. I made a set of colored flowers with a grassy base, that I like to think are pretty cute.

Happy hunting!

I will be gone on holiday Sept 7-22. I hope to come back with lots of photos for projects!

Ok!! so one thing Im sure we have all noticed, or been warned about, is when you link a mesh to a sculpt the Land Impact (LI) has the potential to get very large.  This has been fixed!

Ignoring scripts for the moment – if you link a sculpt to a mesh – the sculpt will have no more than 2 LI, and very often remain at 1 LI. Read this link and this is the portion of interest:

Changed prim accounting for legacy prims which use the new accounting system

  • All legacy-style prims have their streaming cost capped at 1.0 (except for sculpts, which will be capped at 2.0). This provides the benefit of not penalizing prim-based creators for optimizing their content by opting into the new system and will make the streaming cost more reflective of the true network cost of the objects.

What does this mean? Well – I’ve experimented a bit and here is what I have found:

When I link a 1 prim sculpted bird to a 2 LI mesh birdhouse, I get an LI of 3.


How does this help a builder? You can make the chickadee sculpt in your name – so the build shows your name as creator with chickadee as root, and prim count does not go up (yes I know chickadee isnt root in this picture – but it does work with him as root!).

Again – it works with either prim as root – so you can have the sculpted grass in your name as root.

But sometimes the sculpt will jump from 1 prim to 2 LI – as in this case:

A 1 LI sculpt field:

And a 1 LI mesh clumps with ground cover:

When linked ads up to 3 LI:


Now 3 prims for a a field? Is that a lot? Well – this field is 8.5 x 8.5 meters, has 4 textureable plant faces (1 sculpt, 3 mesh) you can animate one of the mesh faces AND you have textureable ground cover. I think it looks pretty good for 3 Land Impact / Prim Equivalents.


So what does this mean for the builder? Experiment experiment experiment! You may be pleasantly surprised 🙂 I think these new changes give us some interesting options for combining prims, sculpts and meshes.

Hints: after the items are linked – try changing the root to “convex hull” on the features tab and changing the child to “none” – that should ensure that you have the lowest LI possible.

Also – check out this wikki post on physics optimization. Lots of handy information and a script to set all child prims to none!



I just made a new mesh bird house with plants. All in 2 prims! And I decided to put it up for sale at Creators Village at Builders Brewery. They are having a sidewalk sale and I nabbed a table.  Builders Brewery has given me a lot – and I’ve learned so much from there. And most of my friends come from there – and now I even teach there! I make my students say “Rawr” when they are ready to continue… So anyway, I thought it would be fun to nab a table for the sidewalk sale. And a cut of my proceeds to go the Brewery – so win win!

The kit comes with the full perm mesh object. Which is 2 PE as delivered – and you can attach a small phantom prim as root and it will still be 2 prims AND have your name on the build. Add it to a build – add birdsong, add fluff – have fun! I’ve included some weathered wood textures, a grass with white flowers you can tint and an animated grass texture with script. You can have 5 different textures on the bird house and 3 different plant or grass textures – so go wild!

My table o’ stuff is at http://maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Builders%20Resource/150/29/22 where you can come see it in the pixels.

Ive put this new fun meshy bird house for sale at 25% off or 375L  – but only until 9 August. The sidewalk  sale ends on August 9, and then I will put this for sale at my shop and marketplace and the price will be 500L

Oh my my. I have recently achieved a long held dream of mine. Low prim animated plants!!

I love my sculpty plants, but the whole of a sculpt is 1 face – so not good for a proper animation. You can animate on the faces of prims – but to make a field that is hardly low prim then. But mesh! You can define faces on mesh and animate them!

So check this out (click picture to see in marketplace):

I know I know – it looks sort of simplistic in the ad. But that’s the point! It IS simple. There are 4 faces: ground cover and 3 plant forms up above. There are helper faces below the field to help you texture the faces above. You can put whatever texture you like on any of these faces, or a totally clear texture to make it disappear!! So you can have plants in dirt, grasses in sand, rushes in water, 3 flowers and no ground cover – the possibilities are endless!!

But wait – there’s more!! You can animate a face. I have included 4 textures for animating (16 grass images on one picture, each slightly different). Two types of movement, colored or desaturated. And several scripts for different faces.

I made the grass textures included here to go with my DBS meadow grass with flowers set, but grass goes with many many plants.  Or put your favorite water or mud on the ground face and animate that! Go super realistic or crazy wild surreal!!

Dagmar Klaar made a short video to show this motion:

And it looks very pretty in world:

All this plus instructions, scripts, textures & examples will make a 1 prim field at 8 x 8 x 2.5. AND – it will still be 1 prim if you add a small prim of your own!! Which means your name will show as the creator. But please – make a build and do not simply sell a copy of my example.

Come see it in-world  – that’s where it looks best!


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